POLEROUTER REBORN: PAST MEETS PRESENT IN A MODERN TRIBUTE
The couturier’s tribute to adventure
Universal Genève breathes new life into a classic, merging historic craft with contemporary design.
In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) embarked on an ambitious journey, flying over the North Pole for the first time to shave 2,600 kilometers off its route from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
“The airline needed a timepiece that could withstand the extreme magnetic fields of the polar skies,” explains Universal Genève Managing Director Gregory Bruttin. “Universal Genève answered the call with the Polerouter – a shockproof, water-resistant, anti-magnetic watch, refined in design, and crafted by a young visionary, Gérald Genta, who would go on to become one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century.”
Seventy years later, Universal Genève honors the legacy of this iconic model with an unprecedented fusion: a redesigned case paired with a historic micro-rotor movement. This blending of past and present has resulted in three exceptional tribute pieces – one in white gold destined for auction, and two for the Universal archives in red gold and stainless steel – true to the Polerouter’s codes.
The new Polerouter keeps the original’s signature details – twisted lugs, dauphine hands, and a two-part dial in contrasting finishes – while adding both the modern Universal Genève and SAS logos at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively.
The piece, set to be auctioned at Phillips in May, 2025, has a dial in the SAS signature blue. Its remarkable white-gold bracelet is custom made by Laurent Jolliet, Switzerland’s last chaîniste, celebrating a time-honored craft. “Universal’s slogan is ‘Le Couturier de la Montre’ – the watch couturier,” says Bruttin. “These pieces speak to a tradition of haute couture and métiers d’art in watchmaking that we are carrying into this new era of the brand.” Proceeds from the auction will be donated to CPF Arts, a Geneva-based school training the next generation of artisans.
With only three pieces in existence, this new Polerouter is more than a commemorative release, Bruttin says, “It’s a rare bridge between eras, crafted to celebrate Universal Genève’s spirit of precision and artistry.”
“THESE PIECES SPEAK TO A TRADITION OF HAUTE COUTURE AND MÉTIERS D’ART IN WATCHMAKING THAT WE ARE CARRYING INTO THIS NEW ERA OF THE BRAND.”
Gregory Bruttin, Universal Genève Managing Director
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