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ALESSANDRO FANCIULLI: STORIES THAT STAND THE TEST OF TIME

Guardian of know-how

For Alessandro Fanciulli, collecting Universal Genève watches is not just about ownership; it's also about preservation. Each piece has a story just waiting to be revealed.

 

When he confides in UG Magazine, Alessandro Fanciulli remains down-to-earth: "I know how to take care of these pieces. But they don't belong to me. They have their own life, their own soul and their own energy. I'm lucky enough to be able to look after them until the next owner."

 

For the watchmaking influencer, who uses the pseudonym "Mr. A" on Instagram, the adventure with Universal Genève began in Milan, his hometown. Alessandro Fanciulli describes his fascination with the brand as immediate: "You could say that UG was my first crush in the watchmaking world." Every element, be it the case, dials, hands, movement or crown, is of absolute perfection. "They were little time machines that you could go out and enjoy life with."

A Polerouter from the 1960s with a background engraved with the name of T.H. Nilert, former president of SAS Airlines in the United States.

Stories worth telling

What fascinates Alessandro Fanciulli is not so much the objects themselves, but the lives behind them. Indeed, two of his most precious pieces bear the imprint of their former owners.

 

The first is a Polerouter, the Universal Genève watch designed to accompany Scandinavian Airline Systems (SAS) pilots on their first commercial flights over the North Pole. The 18 ct gold caseback is engraved with the name of T.H. Nilert, former president of SAS North America, as well as the two decades of service his watch commemorated (1941 to 1961). Its gold hands, painted black to better contrast with the gold dial, were probably modified by T.H. Nilert himself to facilitate reading. "I'm really proud to own this piece, as it's a real piece of history," says Alessandro Fanciulli.

 

The second remarkable piece is a customized model featuring the Venezuelan effigy. Unlike the colored enamel dials of the time, this watch features a silver base profiled with resins and dipped in galvanic baths to achieve its bespoke design. Commissioned from Universal Genève by Caracas-based retailer Henrique Pfeffer, it features a rare characteristic for the period: the "HPC" signature on the dial. Alessandro Fanciulli adds, "The fact that a customer wore this watch in Venezuela in the 1950s, and that the retailer so proudly affixed his name to it, is for me the quintessence of cool."

A 1950s Universal Genève piece for Caracas-based retailer Henrique Pfeffer, depicting a map of Venezuela.

"THEY DON'T BELONG TO ME. THEY HAVE THEIR OWN LIFE, THEIR OWN SOUL AND THEIR OWN ENERGY. I HAVE THE CHANCE TO CARE FOR THEM UNTIL THE NEXT HOLDER."

ALESSANDRO FANCIULLI

 


 

Pairs and quests

Alessandro Fanciulli doesn't just collect individual watches: he takes pleasure in bringing the different pieces together. "I've always seen my watches as a little family. My aim is to bring them together. It's a bit like a Pokémon quest, where the aim is to find them all."

 

Like this set of watches, which he calls "flame lugs", featuring a small seconds in a counter at 6 o'clock, and lugs shaped to evoke flames. He first found the steel version, a sculptural feat he describes as "way too cool". Then he discovered its golden counterpart. "I had a crush on this piece, and then I found its twin. Sculpting this piece in steel seems insane, and yet it's a no-brainer."

 

When Alessandro Fanciulli reflects on Universal Genève's long-awaited return to watchmaking, he expresses his hope that the brand's new custodians will retain its bold spirit. "UG was a true creative outlet. It created exceptional and innovative models, and was never afraid to create watches with a unique allure. I'm really looking forward to seeing this when Universal Genève returns. It's very important to retain the boldness, originality and polished aesthetics that characterize the brand."

 

The challenge is on: to pass on the watches, but also the stories they haven't yet told.

Alessandro Fanciulli has assembled these unique small-second models, which he calls "flame lugs".