Universal Genève's Polerouter was a precision instrument developed for pilots, capable of withstanding the magnetic conditions of the North Pole. Soon, the original model became a colorful creation, proof that Universal Genève and its partners were pioneers when it came to dials with a bright look.

Blue watch dials have been around since the 1600s, thanks to enameling. This skill of jewelers has adapted very well to watch designs, particularly with astronomy-related pieces, featuring moon phases and other stellar inventions designed to recall the night sky.

Green and turquoise were also among the first colors used for watch dials by enameling, a technique that involves adhering glass powder to a metal surface through multiple firings in hot ovens. Lacquered and galvanized blues and greens first appeared in the 1950s, and Universal Genève was among the first to use them, along with its dial design partners. These colors enjoyed their heyday in the 1960s and 1970s, an experimental era when stone dials were also displayed in blue lapis lazuli, green malachite and golden-brown tiger's eye.

It's worth pointing out that back then, it wasn't necessarily essential to preserve watches in their original condition (or, in watchmaking parlance, preserve their "originality"), as collectors do today. Test dials, prototypes and other non-production materials were available on the market, appealing to watch owners who were looking for something different, or a spare for their everyday watch.

"Watches fitted with colored dials on the secondary market can be unique and look great. But in the auction context, they are generally of less interest than watches that have come out of the factory," explains Mikael Wallhagen, European head of watchmaking at Sotheby's. However, Mikael Wallhagen is well aware that some collectors don't mind modifications on the secondary market. He cites one of Universal Genève's main suppliers, Stern Frères, which offers dials in a variety of colors and patterns. "They're the kings of dials!" he declares.

This is a rare, electric-blue steel Polerouter from the late 1960s. Its nuanced dial has earned it the nickname "lapis", but the watch has nothing to do with the semi-precious stone flecked with pyrite. No, this blue dial adorned with a psychedelic night sky motif of light blue dots surrounded by yellow hour markers was surely made from vitreous enamel. The star-shaped dots can also be seen as a sign of the times, as the space race, which had captured the public's imagination, can be found in all aspects of art and design.

This example from Polerouter testifies to the wealth of secrets contained within the collection. However, its history remains an enigma, as the dial has yet to be identified in the Universal Genève archives. Another element of uniqueness: each dial that has been found so far displays its own distinctive speckled pattern. This watch could be a prototype that never went into production. Its dial may also have been replaced by a model that was not approved by the Geneva headquarters, or by a spare model from a watchmaker, a common practice among many brands in the 1960s. Its owner commented, "People didn't particularly care about originality back then." However, if you're a collector who particularly appreciates color and rare pieces, this watch ticks all the boxes.

Soon after its launch in 1954, the Polerouter collection conveyed a certain artistic exploration, as can be seen in this elegant 35 mm model with a green dial, dating from 1969. The original design of the inner and outer bezels paved the way for minimalism. The slightly concave outline of the glossy lacquered green dial is enhanced by diamond hour markers, except at three o'clock, where you'll find a sturdy metal square indicating the date.

At the time, lacquered forest green would have been a very rare color choice, proving that Universal Genève innovated with this technique, which, with galvanizing (the process of applying a coating to metal surfaces using electric current) a few years later, gained ground over enameling.

The deep green of this dial blends perfectly with its sparkling contours. The case and bracelet are crafted in white gold, to perfectly embody the rich elegance of the 1960s. The supple bracelet, flush with the wrist, gives the desired impression of being high-end, yet simple in appearance. Once again, there's a big surprise when the bracelet is turned over to reveal an extremely elaborate design based on soldered gold wires, essential to support the bracelet's serpentine exterior.

Given its luxurious and rare, or perhaps singular, execution in white gold, it's not surprising that the crown is simplified and not screwed down, as water-resistance would not have been paramount for such a watch. The discreet crown is also a distinguishing feature for Universal Genève aficionados, as gold watches generally feature a smaller crown than steel ones. But it's large enough to carry the Universal Genève "U" signature.

If you opt for gold, you may need to add a touch of color for better legibility. This Polerouter, made for SAS in the late '50s and equipped with the famous Microrotor movement used from 1958, was not intended for pilots. It was a luxury edition, designed following a special request, mainly for SAS management. At the time, models designed in collaboration between SAS and Universal Genève were not available to the general public.

When this sumptuous watch left the Universal Genève factory in Carouge, it combined everything a gold lover could hope for: a gold case, a gold-plated dial, gold Dauphine hands. But, to be honest, gold on gold on gold isn't very practical for telling the time at a glance. So its pragmatic owner entrusted his beloved Polerouter to a watchmaker and asked him to paint the hour and minute hands black. Presto! Now he can tell the time, and the black hands perfectly echo the black leather strap.

"Such modifications were carried out very frequently, but rarely with such magnificent results as on this Polerouter," says Universal Genève historian Fred Mandelbaum of the customized watch.

What lends an extra note of rarity to this watch is the inverted outer dial compared to most Polerouter models. Here, the indexes are recessed, while the rest is brushed to add shine. Normally it's the other way around: smooth indexes surrounded by very fine guilloche lines.

This is the case with the Polerouter SAS by Universal Genève launched on November 15, 2024 in tribute to the 70th anniversary of the watch and its debut on board the first transpolar commercial flight. This unique timepiece features a white gold case and intricate bracelet, complemented by (what else but color) a deep blue dial inspired by the iconic SAS hue. While modern galvanization makes this hue possible, it is part of a centuries-old tradition of using color as artistic expression, and shows that Universal Genève's palette remains as vivid as ever.